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Three-Hop Twill

If you look closely at the cloth you will see that the weave is three-hop twill with a herringbone pattern. This is a very distinctive weaving pattern. In twill weaving, the weft or cross thread passes over two, three or more warp threads before passing under a single one. Warp threads are the threads that are strung onto the loom first before weaving begins, usually in a vertical direction. Warp threads invariably are the threads that run the length of the cloth. During weaving, the hop over and then under process is repeated across the entire width of the cloth. Then, at the next weft row (or pick as it is sometimes called) the hop pattern is offset by one warp thread. And then the next pick, offset again; and on and on. This creates a fine ridge at an angle that gives an illusion that the cloth is woven at an angle. Twill is said to have a diagonal wale or texture. Look at a pair of ordinary denim blue jeans to see an excellent example of twill weave. On well faded jeans the hop is clearly visible as nearly white thread and the weft it goes under as a darker blue stripe. (15)

A herringbone pattern is sometimes introduced into a twill weave by, every now and then, reversing the offset so that the diagonal wale is reversed.  The resulting appearance resembles the backbone pattern of a herring, hence the name herringbone. Some blue denim designer jeans use the herringbone pattern, which gives them a striped appearance. If you are not into designer jeans you can see the patterns at Target or Macy’s or any number of stores that sell them.  Other decorative and complex patterns including lozenges, waves and zig-zags can be created in twill weaving by varying the hop in different ways. (16)